Materials & Techniques I Use
STOCK REMOVAL METHOD
I make knives using the stock removal process, meaning I start with a bar of steel and grind away everything that doesn't look like a knife. I believe it is easier to make a good knife this way than to forge them. Although forging does have some benefits, (not as limited by bar stock sizes, utilization of old world and historical techniques, and probably more) stock removal can make a harder working and more "high tech" knife.
Think of it like the difference between a Colt Revolver and a Sig P320. You probably (like me) love the classics, and they will certainly get the job done, sometimes better than newer things will, but they will not perform in the same league with the best techniques and materials we have available today. I like using natural wood, antler, and other classic materials because we enjoy them and chances are they will do all we ever need them to do. After all, most anything will last a lifetime or more if taken care of.
STEEL TYPES
I work with stainless, tool, and high carbon steels, depending on the knives intended purpose. I'll also probably be branching out into different types of steel moving forward. There is NO one size fits all steel!
All of these steels are common, and if you want to know more about them are easily researched, however, find a reliable source, there are a lot of fallacies about knife steels out there. Much that is attributed to different knife steels really comes down to heat treatment and edge geometry.
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AEB-L stainless: Think of it like stainless 1070. One of the finest grained steels out there, due to a balance of chromium and carbon, originally designed for razor blades. It will hold a very thin edge because of the toughness derived from grain size; out of the common stainless steels, AEB-L is probably the toughest. It is less stainless than 440c, but I've never heard of anyone having problems with it rusting. It is less wear resistant and will not hold an edge as well as D2, but will take a thinner edge and is fine for edge retention. Don't let it get dull, just strop it when it starts to drag, and it will keep going. It can be heat treated to high hardness (63 rockwell) and be an excellent slicer, or can be heat treated to around 60 for rougher uses. I like mine harder since most of my knives are only meant for slicing. It is cheap, easy to grind, easy to sharpen, is tough and hard, is stainless, holds its edge well, and is quickly becoming one of my favorite steels for pretty much any knife.
440c stainless: Perhaps the most common steel type for custom knives (production knives will probably use inferior grades of steel). I use this steel anytime I want a fully stainless steel, although technically you can get any steel to corrode if you work hard enough at it. Because of the large chromium carbides, it is not the toughest steel available. It has fair edge retention (compared to super steels) and excellent edge retention (compared to "normal" knives). I use it in boat, kitchen, folding, and many other types of knives.
D2 tool steel: This has about 12% chromium, so it is not technically a stainless, but it does have adequate corrosion resistance for almost all applications. It has a pretty cool history, and all else being equal has excellent wear resistance (you don't have to sharpen as often), but that also makes it a lot tougher to grind and handsand (my problem, not yours). It is also very high in carbon (1.55% or thereabouts). I use it in hunting, EDC, folding, and other types of knives.
1080/1075 high carbon: The main and sometimes only(?) elements in these steel are iron (Fe) and carbon (C). The differences between the two are mostly just the amount of carbon in the blades, with 0.80% and 0.75% respectively, although different sources will have differing specs. I'm guessing this steel is very similar (though with a lot less impurities and produced much better) to the steel in times past, but don't quote me on that. It can make a good knife, but does not have any corrosion resistance, which is often a big deal to my customers. I have carried one of my first MC belt knives in 1080 almost every single day for multiple years in Pacific Northwest weather and haven't had any problems with rust, so usually I don't think un-corrosion resistant steel is a problem. 1075 is capable of producing a hamon if you are capable of producing it. I used these steels for hunters, EDC, bowies, choppers, etc.
HANDLE MATERIALS
This is where the beauty and character of the knife is most obviously seen, or in some cases, lacking. There are a plethora of materials, types, and colors of materials that can be used as knife handles. Again, the handle must be part of the overall package. Just like you would probably never put a wood stock on your AR-15, you would probably never put mother of pearl or ivory on your edc.
Wood: Natural wood has been used as a knife handle for a long time, and it will continue to hold it's place, either naturally or in stabilized form. I use a wide variety of woods, some of them scraps that were given to me by friends. It is a natural material and will swell, shrink, and some species are prone to cracking. It can be, in my opinion, the most beautiful.
Micarta: Paper, linen, or canvas that is hardened in resin or something. I use the professional stuff and it has never disappointed me. Makes a very durable handle that will not cause many of the problems that natural materials will. Comes in a variety of designs and colors, and looks great on the right knife.
Antler: Having never used horn or ivory, I can only speak of antler. It is a natural material, which means you will have to realize the risks that entails. It is a very old material to make knife handles from and looks great on the right knife. I've used caribou, elk, and deer antler.
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SHEATHS
The sheath in most cases is just as important as the knife. Have you ever carried a belt knife that had a poorly made sheath? Then you know what I'm talking about. I'd much rather just carry a pocket knife than a floppy, unsafe, or uncomfortable sheath. Making knife sheaths is a separate skill set from knifemaking, but it is extremely important. As a general rule, I'll probably stick with leather for traditional, wood handled knives, and kydex for hard use, synthetic handled knives.
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Leather: Is the traditional sheath material. It is an interesting material, and can be molded, tooled, hardened, etc. Can make a beautiful sheath. Works better with some knives, and worse with others as compared to kydex. For example, one of my Classic Hunters would not look good or work well with a kydex sheath, because of it's style and large guard. But that large guard that disqualifies it from kydex makes it work well with leather, because the guard can act as retention with a properly designed welt. Anyway, keep leather conditioned and it will last a long time, but not as long as the knife.
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Kydex: Is better suited for some hard working knives, because retention can in some styles of knives be made better, and it is impervious to moisture as opposed to leather. It also can be carried more safely in a pocket and gives you more peace of mind. Usually multiple options of carry positions.
TO BE CONTINUED